FEEDING, WATERING, HOUSING & FENCING FOR KUNEKUNES

A properly fed KuneKune will tend not to root.

In almost 10 years I have had only 2 KuneKunes that rooted and that was mostly seasonal to get to the grubs in wet soil.

AT Red Roof KuneKunes we feed Blue Seal Feed.

We use the Pig Sow Performance which is a 17% protein.

I will substitute Purina Nature’s Match if needed which is available at Tractor Supply.

Red Roof KuneKunes does not participate in the 200# in 12.

Meaning that we do not raise KuneKunes to reach 200 pounds in 12 months.

We believe that the KuneKunes are a slower growing pig that easy to handle.

Our herd has all sizes of KuneKunes in order to meet clients desire for the purpose of their KuneKunes.

Red Roof KuneKunes does breed some litters for larger KuneKune stature in order to produce larger pigs.

We do not free feed for added weight gain in a shorter amount of time.

We ground feed our Breeding Stock.

I would love to pan feed but with 30 KuneKunes that is just not possible.

Piglets and younger KuneKunes are fed from bowls & pans.

The following is a basic feeding regiment.

We do not feed any alfalfa but do offer a good quality green hay.

Please remember that each KuneKune is different and amounts will need to adjusted accordingly.

Amounts are for Adults, Young Pigs and Piglets all the same.

I avoid the following food items:

Avocados

Straight Corn

Corn Cobs

Celery

Salt

Caffeine

Sugar

Raw Potatoes

Onions

Anything Moldy

Nightshade plants

Winter / Fall

(when grass is NOT plentiful) 

Each pig gets 2 cups (8 ounce measuring cups) of pellets twice a day

We use a good quality hay for bedding which they will sometimes much on making it dual purpose 

Also fed are vegetables and fruits depending on availability.

Spring / Summer

(when grass in plentiful)

Each pig gets 1.5 cups (8 ounce measuring cups) of pellets twice a day

We use a good quality hay for bedding which they will sometimes much on making it dual purpose 

Also fed are vegetables and fruits depending on availability.

1 Cup = 8 measured ounces

1 Quart = 4 Cups

Click on the picture below for a link to each product.

Click on the feed dish icon below to see feed ideas provided by AKKPS.

WATERING KUNEKUNES

It is imperative that KuneKunes have access to clean, fresh, cool water daily at all times.

Water tubs are changed and cleaned twice a day.

We use water troughs, dishes and tubs.

We do NOT use water nipples as they can get clogged with mud and it is difficult to tell if all the KuneKunes are drinking from the nipples.

In the winter this can be a challenge for sure!

There are times in the frozen months where we have to break the ice in the water tubs.

Try keeping water tubs in the sun where they will be less likely to freeze.

In the summer it can be a challenge as well!

KuneKunes will flip water tubs to try and cool off and make a wallow.

Having multiple water dishes is key.

To prevent this, we have a large fill wallow in each field April-October.

We change water in the morning and the evenings and sometimes on super hot days a third time during the day.

Try to pick a shaded spot for your water tubs as this helps keep the water cool.

Click on the water dish icon below to see water ideas and pictures provided by AKKPS

KUNEKUNE SHELTER & HOUSING

Shelter is so very important!

How do I define a shelter?

At Red Roof KuneKunes, a shelter is described as 4 sided structure with a roof that is draft free and has an entrance with a flap.

All of our shelters have a floor as well to keep the shelter dry.

The flaps are made of thick plastic, mattress pads or carpet covering.

We use two main types of Shelter.

The main shelter we use is my Dad builds for us.

The secondary type of shelter are calf huts / polydomes which are like a gigantic igloo.

Fencing at Red Roof KuneKunes

Fencing is a super important to prevent escapees and unplanned breedings.

There are many different fencing options.

We use 3 main types of fencing.

Hog Panels with T-posts or wooden posts spaced 4 feet apart attached with wire.

3 and 4 Board Fencing with wire.

Wire with a top and bottom board.

We do not use any type of electric fencing because we frequently have children at our home and our fences are close to the house.

BOARS

Boars fencing is the fencing we concentrate the most on as it gets the most testing by sows and boars when a sow is in heat.

All of my boars are in fields that are DOUBLE fenced to ensure they stay put.

SOWS & GILTS

Gilt and Sows are in the middle field and while their fencing is very secure and free of escape routes, it is not double fenced.

PIGLETS

All of our piglets areas, farrowing and weaning areas, are fenced with graduated hog panels.

This prevents piglets from getting out of their designated area.

FENCING MUST HAVES

There is always fence repair and maintenance.

The following 8 items are super important to keep on hand at all times.

APRON – to keep a variety of fencing items on hand while you are in the pig areas for emergency repairs.

FENCING STAPLES – These are the best way to attach wire fencing and hog panels to wooden posts.

ZIP TIES – These will become your best friend for a quick fix! They come in plastic and metal.

BAILING TWINE – This will also become your best friend for a quick fix.

PAD & PAPER – This is a great way to jot down quick notes for fencing needs or anything you notice with a specific pig of interest.

HAMMER – Nail Away!

BOLT CUTTERS – Boars have tucks and tusks get caught in fencing. Keep these in the SAME place at all times and make sure they are easily accessible.

CLEANING UP KUNEKUNE POOP

In addition to KuneKune feeding, watering, housing and fencing cleaning up after them is equally as important!

Poop Clean up is never fun but can be very informative.

We clean up poop in all farrowing areas, the quarantine area and piglet weaning areas.

We do not pick up poop in the boar areas or main field.

A quick poop clean up can tell you if there is a worm issue and de worming in needed prior to the scheduled date or if piglets are passing worms after being dewormed.

You can also tell if pigs are drinking enough water by the consistency of their poop.

I can also tell if piglets are transferring to eating piglets or if there is a Coccidia issue by what their poop looks like.

We use a kid size rake, a janitor trash collector and muck buckets.

We do NOT compost pig poop.

MUD WALLOWS &

KEEPING KUNEKUNES COOL

IT IS HOT IN THE SUMMER!

IT CAN BE HOT IN THE SPRING & FALL!

PIGS DO NOT SWEAT!

PIGS NEED MUD AND WATER MIXED TOGETHER TO CREATE A WALLOW!

KuneKunes do NOT sweat and there for need a way to cool off.

KuneKunes graze throughout the day and need sun protection.

A Mud Wallow will help with both of these needs.

The mud works as a sunscreen and keeps bugs away.

The water cools them off.

Mud Wallows should be in a shady area away from direct sunlight.

This can be accomplished easily with a shade tarp or digging the wallow in the shade.

We always dig our wallows for out KuneKunes.

We have found the few times we did not that the KuneKunes created a wallow in a horrible location near their water source.

KuneKune feeding, watering, housing and fencing is the key when starting out to success!